Saturday, February 26, 2011

Pie Party in Pictures







The making of the coconut cream pie

Around Valentines day we were in need of a little love from our friends and some winter warmth and treats from the oven. Inspired by a party my sister threw a number of years ago we decided to have a pie party. Yup, pie, all pie, only pie, lots and lots of pie. Each guest was asked to bring a homemade pie of any sort; sweet, savory, big, small, anything they could think of. 

Our fabulous friends brought some great pies: pear ginger, pear blackberry ginger with corn meal crust, lemon curd and raspberry, leek and mustard, apple, cherry with nut crust, avocado cream with cilantro, vegetable pot pie, a zucchini, a spinach, and an onion pie, and a New Haven pie party just wouldn't be complete without some of our  famous pizza pies. I went a little crazy and made five pies for our family: coconut cream pie for me (I've never had one and it is one of those fabulous sounding pies that I have always dreamed of), apple strawberry for my boy, chocolate souffle for my girl (the only sweet she likes is chocolate), raspberry rhubarb, and a mushroom and green onion quiche (just to make sure there were enough savory options). 

 clockwise from top left: apple strawberry, raspberry rhubarb, coconut cream pie, chocolate souffle

I read up on a dozen coconut cream pie recipes to find a good one. I checked out recipes and comments for each recipe and figured out how to make adjustments to improve it based on those comments. I took a classic coconut custard but replaced half the milk with coconut milk, used 1/3 cup cornstarch instead of flour, and unsweetened coconut and topped it with pure whipped cream and toasted coconut curls. Inspired by a photo of an amazing coconut cream pie from a famed restaurant in Texas, I brushed the crust with chocolate to keep it from getting soggy (see photo at top). I also came across this great blog post on thepeche.com from a family in NYC who started documenting their cooking adventures. The amazing chocolate souffle pie a la The Chocolate Bar, was from their month of pies posts, and it was gone almost as soon as it came out of the oven (recipe below). The apple strawberry pie was my six year old boy's pick (he made it up for a pie party we had a year or so ago). The rhubarb I had forgotten that I had in my freezer, saved form last summer, so when I found it, I had to do something fun with that too! My favorite pie crust recipe can be found here, and you can get creative and add any kind of filling you like! I also came across an incredibly inspiring post from cookbook author and NY Times food writer, Melissa Clark, definitely worth a  read!

It was a very fun and very filling night. I think we'll have to do it again in the height of summer fruit season!
My Favorite Coconut Cream Pie
Ingredients

1 ½  cups milk

1 ½ cups coconut milk
2 eggs
3/4 cup white sugar
1/3 cup corn starch
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut, lightly toasted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 ½  cups fresh whipped cream, lightly sweetened
coconut curls – toasted for garnish
1 (9 inch) pie shell, baked  - (perfect pie dough recipe)
4 ounces chocolate, melted


Directions
  1. Brush melted chocolate on inside of baked and cooled pie crust. This helps to keep the crust from becoming soggy when filled with custard. Set aside.
  2. In a medium saucepan, combine milk, coconut milk, eggs, sugar, corn starch and salt. Bring to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, and stir in the shredded coconut and the vanilla extract. Cool and pour into pie shell and chill 2 to 4 hours, or until firm.
  3. Top with whipped cream, and toasted coconut curls or flakes.

Note: To toast coconut, spread it in an ungreased pan and bake in a 350 degree F (175 degrees C) oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until golden brown, stirring occasionally. 

Chocolate Soufflé Pie
From Matt Lewis' Chocolate Bar Cookbook

This is pure deep, dense indulgence, like a chocolate truffle shoved into a pie crust. Life changing? Yeah. Make it.

Ingredients
Pie crust
4 jumbo eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup flour
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
4 oz dark (semisweet) chocolate, chopped
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream

The crust
  1. Prebaked Crust: Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
  2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out pie crust to a 12-inch circle. Transfer crust to a 9-inch pie plate. Fold over any excess dough, then crimp edges. Prick crust all over with a fork. If you have time, freeze crust for 15 to 30 minutes; otherwise skip this step.
  3. Cover pie with aluminum foil and fill with pie weights (you can use pennies, rice or dried beans for this). Bake for 15 minutes; remove foil and weights and bake until pale golden, 5 to 7 minutes more. Cool on rack until needed. 



The filling
  1. In a double boiler (ours is a ceramic bowl we like set over some low boiling water), add the chocolates, butter, and cream. Stir until smooth. Take the bowl off the water.
  2. Mix together the eggs, flour, sugar, vanilla, and salt in another bowl. Slowly whisk in the slightly cooled chocolate until evenly combined. 
  3. Pour into the pie crust. 
  4. Bake at 350 for around 50 minutes. Keep an eye on that crust. It might start getting a little brown on the edges. If it does, make a collar for it out of aluminum foil (foil folded into a bandanna, then wrapped around the pie plate and over the crust edge)
  5. Let it cool some, before eating, or you will burn your mouth!

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Any great pie recipes? please share by commenting below!

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Improvisational Bread Making

For much the past year, I have been baking a loaf or two of bread a week. I know this sounds ambitious and difficult, but it's not. Infact, it is fairly easy, very healthy, affordable and fun.  I usually get it started on a Sunday afternoon, and it is done some time after dinner. My initial inspiration for this endeavor was my husband's sensitivity to wheat. I found myself at Trader Joe's stocking up on bags of the least expensive spelt bread around, but realized that I could make it more affordably myself, and that I'd be able to use a wider variety of grains so that it would be healthier for my family as well. I also find that when we make our own bread and we have to slice it our selves, rather than just grab a few slices out of a bag, it lasts longer and we eat less of it, so it is a win all around.  

Bread is the one food I have never cooked professionally, so I don't have a lot of skill or background knowledge in this area, but I have been making challah for years at home, so am comfortable with yeast and dough, and have found this weekly bread making to be fun. I'm sure I could benefit from some time in a professional bread bakery; my loaves are not the prettiest, and there is much room for improvement but, this fresh baked whole grain bread serves us just fine.

I start out with a set amount of warm water and yeast, but then I add various flours, leftover oatmeal, some beer or other interesting ingredients I might have in the house. This is not an exact science, and I urge you to only use this "recipe" if you are comfortable being uncertain of the outcome. I do want to share this however mostly to say that making bread does not need to be intimidating or difficult, just give it a try a few times and see what happens, you might be delightfully surprised, I know I am (almost) every week.

Basic Whole Grain Bread recipe - an improvisational technique
2 cups warm water
2 tablespoons dry active yeast
1 tablespoon honey or other sweetener (optional)
6 to 7 cups flour, more if needed*
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
 oil for greasing the pan
Optional: add seeds, such as flax, sunflower or pumpkin
*You can use a wide variety of flours in bread making. This can be made with all whole spelt or whole wheat flour, or you can use 3 cups whole spelt/wheat and then divide the rest of the flour between white spelt or white flour, a little millet, quinoa, or rye flours. The non-spelt or wheat flours make for a heavier bread, so you only want to use about a cup or so total for this recipe. When using spelt or other grain flours which contain less gluten, the bread will have more of a crumb texture than a lacy texture. If you add oatmeal or oil to your bread you will likely need more flour to help absorb the additional moisture.
  1. Put warm water in a large bowl or stand mixer bowl. Add honey (optional) and yeast. Stir and wait for yeast to proof (bubble) to know that it is working.
  2. Add 3 cups of flour, salt and any other ingredients you are using. Mix until dough starts to come together. If using an electric stand mixer, attach your dough hook at this point and star mixing on low. Add more flour and knead dough with the dough hook or by hand for about 10 minutes, until until you get a dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl or stops sticking to the counter, but is still tacky or slightly sticky. If your dough gets too stiff you can add a table spoon or two of water. 
  3. place dough in a greased bowl, cover with a towel and set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Remove dough from bowl, knead by hand about 5 times and shape into 1 large or two small loaves and place in a greased loaf pan*.  Cover with a towel and set in a warm place until the dough has risen a bit, or close to double in size. Brush the top with water, or egg and place in a preheated 350 degree oven and bake until golden and the bread sounds hollow when tapped, 45 to 60 minutes depending on the size. Let bread cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then turn it out to cool on a rack, or balanced across the pan (see below). 
*Recently I have been making one medium sized loaf and 6 rolls which are just rounds of dough baked on a cookie sheet. The rolls are fun just for some variety and they work great for egg sandwiches or kid sized treats.
 Let me know how your improvisational bread making goes, I hope you get some tasty results!

Friday, February 11, 2011

Fabulous Chocolates Made Close to Home!

For all the good that there is about this little city I live in, I often struggle with the fact that it is not NYC. There are so many foods and food experiences that I miss from living in New York, the bodegas, grocery stores, sweet shops, noodle shops, chinatown, cutting edge restaurants, there is no end to it.  I have come to appreciate the other wonderful food experiences I get living in a smaller city that I couldn't have when I lived trapped in the concrete jungle; like leaving my house and 20 minutes later standing in an orchard picking peaches or raspberries. It is however unfathomable to me that I live in a city that doesn't have a great chocolate store. Which is why today's fabulous food find has me flying high.

There is a woman living only a few miles from me, Susan Davis, also a former NYC chef and mom, who is crafting beautiful, delicious, handmade, preservative-free fine chocolates. Pont Neuf Chocolates is a tiny operation selling at 2 local stores (Chestnut Fine Foods & Whitneyville Food Center) and online: www.pontneufchocolates.com 

Her selection leans heavily to the dark side (my favorites!) and flavors include passion fruit caramel, cardamom lemon, rosemary and hazelnut praline. Simple delicious ingredients, and amazing chocolate. My grandmother who is a chocolate connoisseur declared that they are the best chocolates she has ever had, and I would agree that these are up there among the best. It doesn't hurt that they are made in small fresh batches.  These make a great Valentines gift, I've already started nibbling on mine.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

A Good Excuse to Turn the Oven On

I live in an old New England house and it is 20 degrees outside, so needless to say it is cold inside too. Despite our best efforts to insulate and weather proof, the cold still seeps through cracks, the overhangs, roof eves and basement walls. The price of heating forces us to keep our thermostat pretty low, so we have good slippers and wear scarves and sweaters indoors. I love bundling up, it's cozy, but my other great tactic for warming up in frigid temperatures is cooking. A pot of simmering soup, reducing cider or baking bread all call for turning on the oven or stove for extended periods of time, resulting in a warm house and some tasty results.

Many of you have asked me recently about making granola, which is high on the list of house warming recipes since it bakes for a nice long while. It's also high on the list of wholesome unprocessed breakfast foods and very inexpensive if you make it at home rather than buy it at the store.  I will do my best to lay out this recipe for you, but I have to admit that I never measure when I'm making granola. Essentially, I mix oats, a sweetener and a little oil until the oats are well coated and then add whatever spices I'm in the mood for, bake, add nuts or dried fruit and enjoy. That's it.
Granola 
3 pounds or 10 cups oats (I like to use a mix of rolled and quick oats)
1 to 2 cups sweetener to taste (sugar, honey, maple syrup, molasses, etc)*
1/2 cup oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
dried fruit, nuts, seeds of your choice.

*Because cost is a major factor for me, I tend to use sugar instead of honey or maple syrup to make my granola. I usually make about 6 pounds of oats at a time which would call for a lot of honey, and unfortunately, sugar is much cheaper. I don't make my granola very sweet, and when I can I use part honey,agave, maple syrup or other less refined sweetener. 

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. If you are using sugar to sweeten your granola, place it in a heat proof bowl or jar and add a few tablespoons of boiling water at a time, just enough to dissolve the sugar.













In a large bowl, mix together oats, sweetener, oil, salt and spices until thoroughly coated. Taste and adjust the flavor to your liking. You can add any spices, citrus zest or extracts that you like at this point.








Spread the oat mixture onto 2 baking sheets or  a roasting pan. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove pan from oven and mix the granola so that it gets evenly browned in baking. Return the pan to the oven. Your granola is done when it is golden brown and dried, total baking time is about 60 minutes, depending on the depth of your pan. If it takes longer, don't worry, just cook it until it is lightly brown and dry.






If you want to add nuts, seeds or coconut to your granola, do so about 10 minutes before the granola is done baking. This will give them a few minutes to roast, bringing out their best flavor.

Remove granola from the oven and add any dried fruit that you like. Cool granola completely before storing in an air tight container. A ziploc bag or large jar works well.
    Here I made a double batch of granola with the base recipe above. 10 minutes before it was done I added flax seed and unsweetened shredded coconut to half the granola (jar on the left). The other half I finished in the oven and then added raisins and some cashew pieces and a little extra cinnamon (jar on the right).

    Thoughts on Cereal
    If you are trying to feed a family or even just one hungry person in the USA, cereal is a likely a central part of your diet, and possibly not just for breakfast.  While my family tries to eat a pretty healthy diet, 3 out of four members of my family are quite partial to carbs, especially cereal. It is not unusual to see a bowl of yogurt and granola for dessert or a late night bowl of cereal before bed. A few years ago I realized that with all the hard work I was doing to remove as much processed food from our diet as possible, we still had a lot of cereal in our cabinet. Granted it was the healthier, low sugar brands, but when I started paying more attention I realized that they are still a fairly processed food. Puffed grains like corn, rice or kamut have always been a staple, but it was time to cut back on the puffins, the O's and the like. Granola has always been a favorite too, and we certainly don't mind the super sweet ones from the grocery store, but even in bulk, the cheapest ones run about $2.99 a pound, and many of them have wheat, natural flavorings and about 10 or more ingredients. So, when the weather permits, I happily crank up my oven and make a big, simple, cheap batch of homemade granola.

    Approximate cost of making homemade granola:
    3 pounds oats in bulk - $3 (this is the cost of organic oats at my local health food store)
    sugar - .40 cents
    oil - .40 cents
    spices - .25 cents
    nuts, seeds, dried fruit: $1 to $2 dollars

    Total= 14 cups or 3.5 pounds granola
    about $1.58/pound, about half the price of store bought.

    So, what do you think? Are you going to fire up the oven and make granola? 
    please share your ideas in a comment below!

    Sunday, January 30, 2011

    Kitchen Experiments

    I have some great memories as a kid of concocting food in the kitchen. I'm not sure where my mom was at the time, although I do know that she approved, but I remember mixing all kinds of ingredients together and feeding them to my little sister. Most of it I think was edible, all of it was fun, and I have always thought fondly of those early kitchen experiments as the beginning of my love of cooking and as one of the primary reasons for my comfort and freedom with all things culinary. 

    My son is nearing 7 years old, and he has been cooking with me in our home kitchen since he could stand up. Usually he lends a hand with some baking on a weekend morning, challah dough for shabbat, peeling carrots for a snack or some other small tasks here and there. Recently however he has started asking for little bits of ingredients or a small portion of a meal we are preparing to make an "experiment" of his own. On one occasion he took a ball of pie dough scraps, rolled them in a ball, stuffed with a few chocolate chips and topped with sprinkles and baked it in a lovely silver muffin paper. Another experiment was creating some sushi rolls from a handful of rice left in the rice cooker, a carrot and the last piece of nori. And yet another was tofu marinated with orange zest, sesame oil, salt, garlic powder, and OJ, seared until brown. I don't know that he particularly loved eating any of these food experiments nearly as much as he enjoyed making them, but the pride that he displayed in the process and the final creation were fabulous, and I can't help but feel that I am nurturing a very healthy love of cooking for at at least one more generation.

     Marinated and seared tofu:
    The Proud boy with his creation:
    Carrot sushi roll:

     Pie dough creation and pie:
    A few nights ago I managed to get the two kids to lend a hand in making dinner. My son peeled and chopped carrots and potatoes, and my daughter (nearly 3) cut celery and potatoes with a fairly sharp butter knife. Lending a hand with the cooking certainly got them more excited about dinner and I got to be with them rather than trying to occupy them in the other room so I could cook. Please forgive the quality of these pictures. I don't have good lighting for evening photography, but just couldn't resist posting this. Happy cooking and eating!

    Any luck cooking with kids? please share!

    Monday, January 24, 2011

    Food Coops Over the Years

    Photo credit: Dave Robbins Photography

    Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Between the work I am doing as the Chair of the New Haven Food Policy Council, and my new paid work helping to get a new grocery store and food coop in New Haven, CT : Elm City Market off the ground, I've been more than busy. And, let's not forget the family: many sick days and snow days. It's been a full month and there are more than a few half written blog posts awaiting my attention. While I try and find time to finish those I thought I'd share a few links to some food coops that I have either been a member of or have shopped at over the years.

    I grew up lending a hand at the original New Haven Food Coop when I was a kid in the 70's and 80's, until it closed and turned into a Meat Market and Hostess outlet (no joke!). When I was in College in the early 90's at Sarah Lawrence, I moved to Brooklyn to dance and teach and joined the Park Slope Food Coop, a fairly unique food coop, one of the few left where a monthly work shift is required of all members and only members are allowed to shop at the store. I loved being part of this coop, and many years later when my son was born, my husband got a job there as one of the few paid employees, so we felt even more a part of it. There was a window of time in the late 90's when I lived in Boston, and I joined and shopped at the Harvest Coop in Cambridge and in Jamaica Plain, MA. This coop was more of a standard small grocery store open to the public where anyone could shop but members had special benefits and discounts.

    You may have heard me say more than once that my life revolves around food, and I do mean this literally. When I travel or spend any time in another city or town one of the first things I do is go in search of a grocery store, food market or food coop to explore. I love wandering the aisles noticing the familiar and the unexpected. What little gems might be waiting to be discovered on high up shelf,  in a prepared food case, or on a market table. As a child of the 70's, raised at least partially in a fairly alternative hippy community, I find visiting food coops particularly interesting. Many of them still around today were born of that era; natural food stores with a crunchy granola style and explicit social and communal missions. Some of them have survived, evolving in some ways, but holding onto their roots, others have closed and other new coops have been inspired by these older markets but try to create something new and more contemporary. Some of the new food coops strive to have an affordable mix of natural and conventional foods to help them appeal to a wider audience, many are open to the public: to members and non-members alike, and, all of them are striving to create a member owned independent grocery store in the face of huge corporate expansion.

    For me, being part of a food coop has allowed me to have an even deeper connection to the source of my food and involvement in the community I live in. It just feels different to shop in a grocery store that you are a member/owner of. When there is a spill on the floor, I care more about helping to clean it up; if the item I am looking for is always out of stock I am more likely to talk to the manager rather than just buy it at a different store; if the store is doing particularly well or poorly, I feel proud or concerned. In other words, when I'm a member of a food coop, I'm invested in more ways than one, and this helps me and the store, so it is a win win situation.

    Here are links to some of the food coops I have been a member at or shopped at over the years:
    Park Slope Food Coop Brooklyn, NY 
    Harvest Coop Cambridge and Boston, MA
    Rainbow Coop San Francisco, CA
    Flatbush food coop, Brooklyn, NY
    East End Coop, Pittsburgh, PA
    Brattleboro food coop Brattleboro, VT
    River Valley Market, Northampton, MA

    A few other coops of interest:
    City Market, Burlington, VT
    Willimantic Food Coop Willamantic,CT

    Have you been a member at a food coop or shopped at one? 
    Please share your thoughts below!

    Friday, January 14, 2011

    Black Beans and Sneaky Greens


    So, finally here it is, the long awaited recipe for Black Beans with Sneaky Greens. This is a great versatile recipe. It is easy and very inexpensive to throw together a big pot of flavorful beans that can be served as a soup, in tacos, with arepas, over rice with a fried egg, or add some diced tomato and hot pepper to spice it up a bit. Cooked beans freeze well, so if you make a large pot full, try freezing a few portions for a quick weeknight meal in the future.

    Black Beans with Sneaky Greens *
    2 large onion or 4 cups coarsely chopped
    8 cloves garlic peeled
    1 1/2 tablespoon salt
    3 tablespoons oil
    16 cups water
    4 cups dried black beans
    4 cups finely chopped kale, collards or spinach (large stems removed)
    1. In a blender or food processor, puree onions, garlic, oil and salt.
    2. In a medium soup pot over medium-low heat, saute the onion and garlic mixture until very fragrant and no longer raw smelling, about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally and be careful not to brown.
    3. Rinse beans and add to the pot along with the water.
    4. Simmer beans for 3 hours or until tender and the sauce has thickened. If it is very thick and the beans are still firm, add water. If the sauce is still thin but beans are tender, continue to simmer on very low heat until sauce has thickened. Stir occasionally to ensure that the beans do not stick to the bottom of the pan and burn. Once the beans are tender and the sauce thickened, add the chopped greens and simmer till tender, about 20 minutes for kale or collards, 4 minutes for spinach. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve.
    *You do not need to soak the beans ahead of time to make this dish, and the taste improves when the beans are made a day or so ahead of time.

    To make Tacos:
    6" soft tortillas (flour or corn)
    plain low fat yogurt
    shredded lettuce
    optional additions: hot sauce, onions, mojo sauce, grated cheese, salsa
    1. Warm tortillas
    2. Top with beans, yogurt and lettuce
    3. Enjoy
    Quick and delicious condiment

    I often make a quick and flavorful onion hot sauce to accompany my tacos: finely dice a small onion, squeeze the juice of one lime on top (or a few tablespoons of white vinegar if you don't have a lime), add a sprinkle of salt and sugar and some hot pepper, (either diced fresh pepper, red pepper flakes or a squeeze of hot sauce). Mix and let sit for 10 minutes to soften the onion. Spoon over tacos as desired. 

    Here are some dishes I have made over this year clockwise from top left:
    burrito with lime and hot sauce, arepas with lettuce and beans (this actually got a fried egg on to before it was eaten), garlic and kale rice topped with black beans and cheddar, broiled and then spooned over a roasted half of a poblano pepper.



     Are you cooking with beans these days? Please share your favorite dishes by commenting below!